7 Days Rock Climbing on Mt Kenya North Face Route

7 Days Mount Kenya Rock Climbing

Best done from June to Early October. Mt Kenya rock climb North face standard route starts from shipton Camp or from Kami hut. The first two pitches are easy for scrambing, another grade III then Granda II and a Grande IV to get to the amphitheater. From there an easy walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerges here,one up the tower quite tricky and about grande V in a small gully not enough to fit in other is around the tower its easier but longer. After you will come to the knife edge you can do a grande IV+ pitch before you come to traverse that leads to the shipton Notch. Shipton notch rocks are lose and you need to be careful. After you will be through to Batian 5,199m highest peak of mt Kenya. All routes are graded IV and V most of the pitches.

Day 1: Nairobi/Sirimon/Judmaier Camp (Old Moses Camp) 3-4 hrs, 9km, 860m ascent

Leave Nairobi at 7.30am to Nanyuki town for lunch, taking about 4 hours. Proceed to Sirimon Gate, 1 hr, 2440m. From the gate follow the track as it winds uphill though the forest which becomes heath land after about 3 hrs. About 3½ hours from the gate the track veers right to Judmaier Camp, 3300m for dinner and overnight, L, D.

Day 2: Judmier Camp/Shipton Camp 6-7hrs, 17km, 900m ascent

After breakfast, follow the track uphill, forking left at the junction. After one hour from Old Moses Camp, the track crosses Ontulili River. Go right contouring through the Moorland and crossing Liki North and continue uphill to Mackinders Valley from where there are panoramic views up the valley towards the main peaks. Dinner and overnight at Shipton Camp, 4200m, B,L,D

Day 3: Shiptons Camp to Kami Hut

After breakfast ascend to KAMI HUT 4,600m which normally 2hrs. Dinner and overnight at the hut. Kami hut is the base for climbers who are doing the North Face route.

Day 4: Kami Hut

Wake up early at 0500hrs have some snacks then depart at around 0530hrs to the base of the North face, it normally takes 45 min- 1 hr. This section is rocky and Frozen scree. Continue climbing until you reach the starting point for Rock climbing. You will start your climbing at approximately 0700hrs. You will spend the night at Firmin Tower (10 ropes of 50m). Dinner and overnight at the camp.

Day 5: Firmin Tower- Batian (5,199m)- Shipton Camp

After breakfast from Firmin tower continue climbing until you reach Batian at 5,199m at approximately noon. Later Abseil down to the bottom and walk to shipton Camp for dinner and overnight.

Day 6: Shipton Camp- Chogoria Bandas

After breakfast, ascend to simba col then down to Chogoria Bandas, following the Gorges valley you will walk for approximately 7 hrs to get to chogoria bandas. Dinner and overnight at the bandas.

Day 7: Chogoria to Nairobi

After breakfast you will be picked by your car for trasnsfer back to Nairobi reaching Nairobi approximately 2 pm.