Nelion Peak

Conquer Nelion Peak

The challenge of scaling a peak, the feeling of being one with nature, and the rush of adrenaline make rock climbing an experience like no other.

Conquering Nelion Peak: A Guide to the Ultimate Climbing Challenge

If you're a thrill-seeker looking for a new adventure, look no further than rock climbing. The challenge of scaling a peak, the feeling of being one with nature, and the rush of adrenaline make rock climbing an experience like no other. But if you're looking for a true test of your skills, consider climbing the Nelion Peak. Located in the heart of Kenya, the Nelion Peak is a beautiful and challenging climb that attracts experienced climbers from all over the world. The sheer magnitude of the climb, coupled with its stunning scenery, makes this an unforgettable experience.

About the Nelion Peak

Nelion Peak, a mountain peak located in Mount Kenya, is the second-highest peak, after Batian. The peak is known for its difficult climb, stunning views, and its impact on the local culture. It stands at 5,188 meters above sea level and is the highest technical peak in Kenya. The peak is named after John Lawrence Nelion, who was part of the first team to reach the summit in 1929.

The Nelion Peak has a rich history, and it was first climbed in 1929 by Eric Shipton, Percy Wyn-Harris, and Frank Smythe. The peak has since attracted climbers from all over the world, who come to challenge themselves and test their skills. The climb is famous for its technicality, requiring climbers to have experience and advanced mountaineering skills.

Climbing Nelion Peak presents unique challenges to climbers. One of the main challenges is the unpredictable weather patterns. The mountain is located near the equator, and the weather can change rapidly, causing climbers to face rain, snow, hail, and fog. The peak is also steep, and the route to the summit is exposed and requires careful navigation.

Preparation for Climbing Nelion Peak

Preparing for a climb to Nelion Peak requires a combination of physical, mental, and logistical preparations. Before embarking on the climb, it is essential to ensure that you are physically and mentally fit. Here are some of the key considerations:

Physical Preparation:

Climbing Nelion Peak requires a high level of physical fitness, and climbers need to be in excellent shape to complete the climb. A regular exercise regimen that includes cardio, strength training, and endurance activities such as hiking, is essential. To ensure that you are in the best possible shape, start training at least 3-6 months before the climb.

Mental Preparation:

Climbing a peak requires a high level of mental toughness, and climbers need to be mentally prepared to face the challenges of the climb. To prepare mentally, climbers need to cultivate a positive mindset, stay motivated, and remain focused throughout the climb. Visualization and meditation techniques can also help to stay calm and focused during the climb.


The gear required for the climb depends on the time of year you are planning to climb, but a few basic items are essential. These include:

  • Climbing boots with good ankle support
  • Climbing ropes
  • Harness
  • Crampons
  • Ice ax
  • Warm layers of clothing including a waterproof jacket, hat, and gloves
  • Sun protection gear


Climbing Nelion Peak requires advanced mountaineering skills, and it is important to have an experienced guide to lead the climb. A guide will provide critical support, help with navigation, and ensure that you follow the right safety protocols. They will also help you make decisions on the climb and assist with any emergencies that may arise.

Climbing Nelion Peak

Climbing Nelion Peak is not for the faint-hearted. It’s a challenging and technical climb that demands a high level of fitness, skills, and experience. Here, we will delve into the difficulty level, route options, climbing techniques and safety measures, and the duration of the climb.

  • Difficulty Level:

Nelion Peak is rated as one of the most technical and challenging climbs in Africa. It’s a technical climb that involves navigating through steep rocky terrain and ice. The climb involves long hours of physical exertion and requires a high level of mental and physical endurance. Climbers should be experienced in climbing, have adequate training in high altitude, and have a good understanding of the risks involved.

  • Route Options:

There are two primary route options to Nelion Peak, the North Face Standard Route, and the South Face Normal Route. The North Face Standard Route is the most popular and direct route to the summit, while the South Face Normal Route is a longer and less technical climb. Climbers may choose either route, depending on their level of experience and preference.

  • Climbing Techniques and Safety Measures:

Climbing Nelion Peak requires a range of technical skills, including rock and ice climbing, as well as the use of climbing gear such as ropes, crampons, and ice axes. It’s important to be familiar with these techniques and have adequate training before attempting the climb. Safety measures such as proper rope management, belaying, and anchor systems should also be understood and applied. Climbers must also be prepared for unexpected changes in weather conditions, as the weather can quickly shift, leading to dangerous conditions on the mountain.

  • Duration of Climb:

The duration of the climb depends on the route chosen, weather conditions, and the climber’s experience and fitness level. On average, it takes four to six days to climb Nelion Peak. The climb begins with a trek from Naro Moru town to the Sirimon National Park Gate, followed by trekking to Old Moses Camp, then to Shipton’s Camp for acclimatization hikes and rest. The climb begins on day four from Shipton’s Camp, with an ascent to Point Lenana and Austrian Hut. The summit attempt to Nelion Peak takes place on day five, with a second climb day on day six, before descending and trekking back to Nithi Falls and Meru Bandas for a 4×4 transfer to Chogoria town.